The routes

L'isola che non c’è was first ascended ground-up over a period of 5 days in the cleanest style possible, i.e. with very few bolts along the pitches, a handful of insitu pegs where the rock accepts them. All the rest...

L'or du temps was climbed over four days in summer 2017 by Arnaud Petit and Nina Caprez. The route shares the start of the Bonatti route, then breaks left after 2.5 pitches and continues independently and directly past steep, mainly...

A beautiful and varied route. The second pitch, a perfect 45m crack, belongs to the Mazeaud. A short traverse left (bolt) is followed by two yosemite-like pitches with a series of finger and hand jams, and overhanging laybacks. The final...

Nice route in a mountain environment, up granite marked by plenty of knobs. The bolts are fairly run-out at times, though never dangerously so, and a small trad rack is recommended for additional protection.

Without a doubt the hardest route in this collection if climbed completely free. Thankfully though there are many bolts, the cracks accept plenty of pro, and the abseil descent follows the line of ascent. The "truly strong" can climb the...

Interesting route with a beautiful second pitch.  The bolts are fairly run-out at times, though never dangerously so, and a small trad rack is recommended for additional protection.

A nice route with two outstanding pitches! The third is a vertical slab up a series of small crimps, while the fifth is a long, Yosemite-like overhanging crack. Unfortunately this pitch is often wet at the start of the season.

Technically difficult and psychologically demanding route up excellent rock on a face which is relatively easy to reach but far removed from the more popular climbing destinations.

A historic route, probably the most popular on the entire face, which has by now become a crag above 3500m. The fourth pitch is fantastic, and the upper section offers numerous escape routes.

A short but beautiful route, with a single 6a crux. Ideal for those new to climbing on the Mont Blanc.

Highly satisfying climbing that follows a logical line close to the arête.

Difficult multi-pitch climb up the Roi de Siam granite tower, located directly in front of the Petit Capucin. Established ground-up, the climb takes a line in the center of the face, between the 1989 Petit Capoussin climb and the classic Boccalatte...

The Swiss Route is historic line that leads to the summit of Grand Capucin. If combind with 'O sole mio' by bearing left beneath the obvious roof, it transforms into the easiest outing on the wall. There are many in-situ...

A true journey that winds its way up a sea of granite. Without a doubt the most popular and sought-after modern route on the Grand Capucin. The climbing is technical and athletic. Being good at placing natural pro is a...